Sunday, October 30, 2011

Risotto

Rice is a staple for most of the world.  It goes without saying that, given its popularity, there have evolved more than 15 varieties of rice.    Short grain, long grain, basmati, jasmine, red, black, sushi! All of them can be reduced to length:  short, medium, and long grain, and therefore, more, or less, sticky.   Rice, literally, feeds the world. This seed provides a staple for almost half the world's population. Before I started cooking, my favorite rice varietal was Uncle Ben's.  That wild rice mix was just the respite I needed from my collegiate diet of ramen noodles and cereal.

I've accumulated an appreciation for the different aspects of rice.  I know that wild rice isn't a rice at all, but a grain.  I enjoy foraging at the Co-op for weird rices;  that black rice really is something to try!  My favorite rice remains the Italian standard:  arborio.

Arborio rice can't just be thrown into the rice cooker.  You can't walk away from this one.  Risotto is a labor of love.  It is also a great excuse to stir the pot and do absolutely nothing else.  Okay--you can shout "I'm thirsty!" and take a well-deserved sip.  What you can't do, while making risotto, is "come here for a minute."

You will be forgiven.  Someone else will set the table while you sway to your favorite tunes and stir.  And stir.

Rice is simple:  boil some water.  Add some rice.  Cover it and lower the heat.  Risotto is different.  Boil that water.  Add an equal amount of stock.  A little white wine splashed in there won't hurt either.  One for you, one for me...

In a different pot, heat some oil.  Add garlic and onion, and then--listen up!--add your arborio rice to that hot oil.  Stir.  Stir some more.  Make sure it gets warm.  Grab that ladle --the one you keep next to your stovetop--and add a cup of stock to your rice.  Stir.  Around and around.  Back and forth.  Slowly.  Gently.  When your rice has absorbed all of that stock, add some more.  Stir.  Around and around. Back and forth. Slowly. Gently.  Do it again.  And again.  Keep watching for that track that follows your spoon.  Time to add more stock!

Fall into this rhythm.  It is important to have already poured your apperitif so that you don't have to walk away.  It will improve that improvisational dance you've got going on.  Stir.  Around and around. Back and forth. Slowly. Gently. 

Just when you think you should be done, add a little bit more.  Then add some butter, and (this is my favorite part!) whatever combination of vegetables, protein, cheese that you want.  Sometimes, I actually plan my risotto:  corn, scallops, chopped parsley.  Butter.  One of my favorites  is simply mushrooms, three or four different kinds, a little parmesan, lots of chives.  Butter.  A springtime favorite of mine is Three Pea Risotto:  peas, sugar snaps, Chinese, some lemon zest, a dusting of parmesan.  Butter. 

Risotto is the ultimate recycler.  Whatever you've got in your fridge, on your shelves, will work just fine.  You may find a new favorite simply by throwing in whatever you're not ready to throw out:  broccoli, that shredded cheddar, some leftover torn chicken.  Some butter....

Whatever you decide to throw in, make sure you've cooked it, roasted it, boiled it first.  Raw doesn't work in risotto.  You're just warming it up.  Some chopped herbs sprinkled at the end turn Whatever You've Got into Exceptionally Pretty.

You've emptied your glass.  You've stirred and swayed.  You're singing that "Dinner's Ready" song that everyone knows.  Someone refills your glass as you weigh your options:  You can spoon this onto a plate.  Just like that.  You could add a pork chop, chicken leg, sauteed chard/spinach/ bok choy, grilled salmon.  You could get fancy-schmancy and fill a round cookie cutter with risotto, lift it off, and present your risotto restaurant-style.  Voila!

You've just spent 20 minutes doing a  "leave -me- alone-I'm cooking" dance.   You are relaxed, you've got comfort on your plate, leftovers for lunch, and a family that simply won't complain about this one.  Risotto is what you make it.  Make yours!  Make it great!

No comments:

Post a Comment